Quality Handyman Services

How to paint a bathroom? Rolling the walls (Video)

Jerry — Fri, 28 May 2010 12:25:18 +0000

Easy removal of exterior house paint

Jerry — Fri, 28 May 2010 12:21:40 +0000

You may wish to remove exterior house paint for a number of reasons, including to prep for new siding, or to prep for repainting and restoring your home. Oftentimes, especially with older homes, layers of paint are compounded on top each other on exterior walls. This, in addition to exposure to the elements, can result in flaking, cracking and chipping. Luckily, there are methods you can use for the easy removal of exterior house paint.

Chemical Stripping
Perhaps the simplest method for removing exterior house paint is to use a chemical stripper. You should read and follow the instructions for your specific brand, but generally you will either need to spray or roll the stripper on, and then let it sit for a few hours or overnight. The chemical stripper will react with the paint, allowing you to easily peel off paint layers with a scraper or pressure washer. According to HomeTips.com, some chemical strippers can be quite hazardous to your health, and you must wear hand, eye and respiratory protection when applying them. Neoprene or rubber gloves , shop glasses or goggles, and an organic vapor respirator should do the trick.

Nontoxic Stripping
For those of you who are leery of using toxic, caustic chemicals to removing exterior house paint, ThisOldHouse.com recommends using water-based, nontoxic stripping solutions that are available at most hardware and home supply stores. You apply them in the same fashion as other strippers, but there is no need for you to wear protective gear, not even gloves. Unlike traditional chemical strippers, which dissolve the paint, nontoxic strippers separate paint from underlying materials. After letting the solution soak, you can easily peel off the paint with a putty knife .

Heat Stripping
Heat stripping works by essentially boiling paint molecules until they can be easily peeled or scraped off. You create this heat by using a heat gun, which looks like a modified hair dryer . According to ThisOldHouse.com, you can use a heat gun in combination with chemical and nontoxic strippers, applying the heat to stubborn areas of paint that the solution did not react with well. However, you should always use the utmost care when performing heat stripping, as heat guns can generate a substantial amount heat; enough to start a fire. According to ThisOldHouse.com, it is not uncommon for tiny embers created by heat guns to go unseen, which can potentially produce disastrous consequences.

Danger of lead paint on the exterior of home

Jerry — Fri, 28 May 2010 12:16:32 +0000

Lead is an ingredient commonly found in paint. Before the 1970s, high levels of lead was used in both interior and exterior paint in homes. Lead-based paint that contained over 0.6 percent lead was banned in 1978. Before the 1950s, levels in paint were at the 50 percent mark and, since 1997, have dropped down to 0.1 percent or less.

Traces of Lead
Exterior paint that contains lead releases dust, paint particles and paint chips of the chemical into the soil and grass around the house. Remodeling or removing old paint from the exterior of the house can
also disturb and release lead around the perimeter of the house.

Areas
Areas closest to the house have the highest amount of lead concentration. This area is known as the drip zone, because this is where the majority of paint residue and chips have fallen from the outside of the house.

Effects on Children
Young children pick up and eat paint chips and soil around the house. Children also pick up soil and particles that leave lead dust on their hands or toys.

Effects on Adults
Adults breathe in the lead particles and dust from maintaining the yard or remodeling the exterior of the house.

Expert Insight
According to the National Safety Council, 40 percent of all U.S. homes still contain lead. Experts say the safest way to keep children from entering the drip zone is to plant bushes and trees around the drip zone.

How to Tile a Kitchen Floor pt. 1

Jerry — Sun, 02 May 2010 23:56:02 +0000

How to Tile Kitchen Floor pt. 2

Jerry — Sun, 02 May 2010 23:37:14 +0000

How to Spackle Trim for Sanding (video)

Jerry — Sat, 24 Apr 2010 15:25:02 +0000

How to Estimate Building Room Additions

Jerry — Sat, 24 Apr 2010 15:18:00 +0000

Building a room addition is an easier task than constructing an entire house, but calculating how much material is needed is the same no matter what size the building is. Following a few simple steps makes calculating studs, sheath and hardware a much simpler process. Contractors use ratios and mathematics to properly calculate building supplies. This ensures that only the correct amount of material is purchased. If you are planning on building a room addition, and you need an accurate material list, read through the following steps to learn how it is done.
Step 1
Measure how many linear feet of walls you will construct. Multiply that number by three and add 10 percent for waste. This provides you with the linear footage needed for all of your top and bottom plates for every wall.
Step 2
Take the number of linear feet of walls and figure one stud for every linear foot. Add 10 percent for waste. This estimate covers the amount of studs needed if they are placed 16 inches on center. This also allows for all of the fire blocking.
Step 3
Figure out the full width of the room to calculate how many ceiling joist is needed. Measure the length of the ceiling joist and the opposite measurement of the room. You will need one ceiling joist per linear foot. For example, If your ceiling is 12 feet long and 10 feet wide, you will need 10 12-foot-long joists.
Step 4
Purchase a 50-lb. box of 16-penny common nails, and a 50-lb. box of 8-penny common nails. Do not purchase sinkers. Common nails are full width and full length. If you use sinkers, you will only have to top them off with common nails anyway.
Step 5
Use 1/2-inch struc-1 4-ply sheer (minimum of 8 feet for the walls). You will need one sheet per linear foot. Calculate the linear feet of the walls and divide by 4. This will give you the proper estimate of sheer material needed for your room addition.

How to fix a dishwasher

Jerry — Sat, 24 Apr 2010 15:13:17 +0000

When your dishwasher breaks down, it’s very easy to feel frustrated. After all, it can mean calling in a plumber which inevitably costs a small fortune or maybe even having to replace the entire unit. However, in many instances you will be able to take care of the problem yourself. Many of the things that can go wrong with a dishwasher are fairly basic and you won’t need specialized plumbing or electrical knowledge to fix them.

Step #1 -Power Problems

If there’s no reaction at all when you switch the power on to the dishwasher, the first thing to check is the circuit breaker. If it’s been tripped, re-set it and try again. If the circuit breaker is fine, look at the plug. Is it secure in the socket? If all is well with the plug and it is wired correctly, make sure the other end of the wiring is properly connected to the dishwasher itself and that the door is fully latched. The problem could also lie in the motor. If you have some experience with these, test both the selector switch and the timer motor with electrical testing equipment. You should also check the circuit of the motor itself.

If the motor is humming but the cycle won’t start, you’ll need to look at the motor start relay and the motor as well as making sure the drive belt works properly. It’s also possible that either the motor or the pump might be jammed and you’ll need to rectify any obstructions in them for the dishwasher to work.

Step #2 – Water Problems

If your dishwasher won’t fill properly or continually drains as it’s filling, you’ll need to look for the problem in the float switch or float assembly. You might have to replace these. It could also mean your water inlet valve or drain valve needs replacing as well.

Similarly, where the water won’t drain from your dishwasher, look at the drain valve first as well as for blockages in the drain hose. These are usually the most common problems. You might also have a jammed pump or motor. If the dishwasher is new, have you removed the knock out plug on the drain? If not, do so immediately.

Step #3 – Leakage Problems

If your dishwasher is leaking water, check the door gaskets to make sure they’re tight and not rotted. After that, take a careful look at the drain hose. Is it blocked? If it’s clear, inspect the water inlet valve and then the pump, either of which could be the cause. You might need to either replace the valve or unjam the pump.

With water leaks around the door, make sure that the gasket is tight and in good shape. If it is not, you’ll have to replace it before further use. Take a look at the door latch followed by the door hinges to ensure they’re both secure. If they are not, check for obstructions.

Step #4 – Uncompleted Cycle

When your dishwasher doesn’t complete its full cycle, you’ll have to start by checking the timer motor. If that appears to be fine, inspect the thermostat followed by the heating element and replace where necessary.

Similarly, if the cycle times become too long, you’ll have to check all three of those since one of them will inevitably be the culprit. You might also need to reset the timer motor or replace it.

How to perform generator maintenance

Jerry — Sat, 10 Apr 2010 04:23:29 +0000

In areas of the nation that experience severe seasonal storms–one of the most valued pieces of equipment for most homeowners–is their home electric generator. Whether permanently installed or portable–generators are there for you when you need them most–in times of power outages. But, what good are they if they aren’t kept in tip-top shape? The last thing you want to happen is for a storm to roll in and your generator not be ready for duty when called upon. Follow these simple maintenance steps–and the next time a storm hits and cuts the power to your neighborhood–your home generator will be keeping the fridge cold and the lights on–so that you can calmly and comfortably weather out the store until the utility company arrives.
Step 1
For all intents and purposes, maintaining a home generator is very similar to maintaining your car’s engine. In fact, most quality generator motors are manufactured by automobile companies like Honda, Ford and others. So, the first step is to check the oil at the start of the winter and summer seasons and replace the oil filter once a year.
Step 2
Replace the air filters on your home generator annually, just like with an automobile.
Step 3
Inspect all of the belts for wear, cracks or dryness. Bad belts can cause your generator to perform less efficiently and ultimately overheat the motor. The belts on a generator should be replaced every couple of years to maintain optimum performance.
Step 4
If it’s been a while since you last checked your generator, then it’s time you drained the antifreeze from the radiator and replenish it with fresh liquid. If you allow the old fluid to stay inside the radiator, it can cause deterioration, which will negatively affect your generator’s lifespan. Ideally, you should replace the fluid prior to the start of your area’s severe storm season.
Step 5
Keep the area around your home generator as clean as possible. Trim any weeds that may be growing up around it and try to keep it as dust-free as possible.
Step 6
Check the owner’s manual that came with your home electric generator and look for the manufacturer’s suggested maintenance schedule. This will indicate what should be done to the unit after so many hours of operation. For instance, after 200 hours of generator operation, some manufacturers suggest that you have all of the connections on your generator checked for stability.

Going green with electrical

Jerry — Sat, 10 Apr 2010 03:36:47 +0000

Things You’ll Need:
CFL bulbs
Power strips
Solar lighting
Common sense

Step 1
CFL bulb
Install CFL bulbs throughout your house. This is as easy as “screwing in a light bulb!” If you don’t know what a CFL bulb is, see the picture. Personally, I wait until my old incandescent bulbs die. Which actually doesn’t take long. No sense in throwing away money already spent.

Step 2
Power strip
Unplug all electrical devices when not in use. Many devices, such as cell phone chargers televisions and computers continue to use energy even when they are shut off. You know, that little red lit or the digital clock on the DVD player? That’s extra power use, and you get charged for it. This is a simple fix! Plug these items into a power strip that can be shut off when use/charging is done.

Also, turn that light off when not in use. My parents hollered at me all the time for this one, so I was going green since I was old enough to turn on a light switch.

Step 3
Solar light
Install outdoor solar lighting. Many home improvement stores now sell a wide variety of outdoor solar lights that use no electricity at all. Path lighting, motion detection lighting all work well for lowering your electrical usage.

Also, take advantage of natural sunlight. Open your blinds or drapes, install skylights or sky tubes. I installed a sky tube in my very dark kitchen last year and kept hitting the switch, thinking someone left the light on.

Step 4
Ceiling fan
Your air conditioner wastes alot of electricity. Set your thermostat a couple of degrees higher in the summer and use ceiling fans to supplement staying cool. Yes, I know, ceiling fans use electricity also, but they don’t use as much as your A/C unit does.

Step 5
Hang your clothes out on a clothesline. Electric clothes dryers are a big electric energy waster. Hanging out your clothes uses only sun, wind and your energy! And even if you have a gas dryer, you can save on your gas bill also!)

These are a few simple, inexpensive ways to start saving on your electrical bill. Why not go ahead and try a few and go green for the planet.

By temptfate
User-Submitted Article