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Having the right level of attic insulation in your house is definitely one of the most important considerations in keeping your energy costs low. Attic insulation protects from the cold in the winter, and also keeps the cool in during the hot summer months. What considerations factor in towards making your attic a well insulated place?

Examine first the type of attic insulation you have. Many older houses have what is referred to as batt insulation. That’s the kind that comes in large rolls, and is typically colored pink or yellow. The insulation is spread out in the attic, generally between the wooden beams.

The other kind of insulation is called blow-in insulation. Blow-in insulation is typically installed by professional contractors, as they have the correct equipment to do the work. Small bits of insulation are mechanically wind blown into the attic, creating the blanket across the attic floor. You will generally find this kind of insulation in new houses.

There are of course good and bad with either batt insulation or blow-in insulation. Batt insulation, when installed properly provides an equal R-Factor through the attic. The R-factor is the measurement of the overall performance of the insulation, and is also called the thermal performance. It measures the resistance of the flow of heat. Batt attic insulation that is properly installed will give you a uniform R-Factor through the entire attic.

Alternatively, blow-in insulation is propelled into the attic with a machine. While it is very difficult to blow it in uniformly through the whole attic, the result is a variable R-factor in that space. As long as the installation is done thoroughly, and the necessary minimum number of inches sits on the flooring of the attic, the insulation will do the trick. This makes the issue of a non-uniform R-factor a non-factor overall.

The money involved with batt and blow-in insulation is of course another factor to consider. Usually batt insulation costs less to buy, but your time is something to consider as well. Lots of time is needed to correctly add insulation, or replace the existing insulation. When adding attic insulation, you of course have to have the right equipment, including proper clothes, lots of time, and plenty of patience.

Alternatively, you can always contract the job out for a little more money, and have a blow-in insulation job completed in just a few hours without as much trouble.

Stay tuned as next I will cover more on the differences between batt and blow in attic insulation, and consider other energy saving tips for your attic.

Tags: Seasonal maintenance by Jerry
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It’s no secret that ecological concerns are now informing homeowners and builders decisions when they are choosing how to build and what materials to use. Obviously insulation is an important factor, as it makes our homes more energy efficient, and is inside the walls, floor and ceiling of a well-built home. While the traditional glass-fibre insulation is still a popular choice, there are now a lot more insulation options available to homeowners and builders.

One option is mineral wool insulation. This can be man-made or natural, and fiberglass is a man-made mineral wool. So is a ceramic fibre insulation. A natural mineral wool insulation is made of basalt and slag, basalt being volcanic rock, and slag being a mix of metal oxides. The major advantage of this insulation is its extreme natural fire resistance. It will only melt at temperatures of 1,832 degrees Fahrenheit, and even that will take about two hours. Compared to fiberglass insulation which melts at1,472 degrees Fahrenheit within 20 minutes, that’s an amazing advantage. What this means is that natural mineral wool requires no extra fire retardants, making it that much healthier for your home environment.

Another option gaining popularity is polystyrene and polyurethane foams. Polystyrene is better known by the trademark name of styrofoam, and is available in a number of forms for a variety of insulation purposes. It can be used to insulate pipes, reducing heat loss and reducing energy bills. A method of building involving layering the foam under concrete foundation is highly effective at insulating floors.

Polyurethane is most commonly used as a spray-in insulation, and is useful for filling in cracks or applying insulation to hard-to-reach crevices.

If you desire to move away from man-made insulations, there are a variety of natural insulations that are also highly affective. Wool batting is made of sheep’s wool that is mechanically bonded. It can also be formed into ropes for insulating between the logs in a log home. The major environmental advantage is it is renewable and recyclable. It has an R-value of between 3.5-3.8 per inch of thickness. Wool insulation is naturally fire resistant, though it will burn at temperatures of 1040 Fahrenheit. However, when it does burn, it’s smoke does not contain any dangerous toxins, unlike most of the other insulations mentioned here. In addition, wool particles are too big to become a health hazard if inhaled. Wool insulation is also biodegradable.

Finally, another natural alternative is insulation made from recycled denim and other cotton scraps. This cotton insulation is sold in bats and is quite non-toxic. It uses minimal energy to produce, and takes a product otherwise destined for the landfill and makes it into a healthy insulation alternative. Most cotton batting insulation is treated with a natural fire retardant that also keeps pests and mold at bay. It is not irritating to the skin and is easy to install. It is also an excellent acoustic insulator.

There are a lot of insulation options out there for the ecologically-minded builder or homeowner, and depending on your budget, health concerns and insulation needs, it shouldn’t be hard to find the right one for you.

Tags: Seasonal maintenance by Jerry
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If you are told that your attic along with the roof are two of the weakest places in your thermal insulation system it is possible that many may not believe. According to statistics poor (or absent) attic insulation will account for up to 15 % of the total energy loss in your house. Insulating an attic which is generally unheated is vital in the home energy saving process.

What is really the attic in your building?

Attic is defined as the space enclosed by the building wall and is located directly under the roof. As this is an area generally not occupied continuously by anybody (except in special designs and home modifications) it is unheated. Some components of utilities such as water heaters, hot water storages, air conditioning and heating air ducts and also goods storages may be located here depending on the volume of space available. Generally the roof and the floor are insulated though more often than not inadequately.

Areas of heat loss in an attic

Some major points of heat loss have been identified by researchers. For example;

Roof Attic floor Air vents Attic access Poorly erected hot/cold air distribution ducts

and,

Poor insulation in hot water tanks and plumbing

The silver lining in the whole issue is that of all insulations of an old or new building attic insulation is the easiest to tackle. And in most cases can be carried out by semiskilled amateurs as a DIY project perhaps during a weekend!

Types of attic insulation

Commonly used attic insulations are as follows;

Cellulose Insulation ? loose fill Cellulose Insulation ? Stabilized Insulation Fibreglass and mineral wool Insulation- loose fill Fibreglass and mineral wool insulation- batts Expanded Polystyrene or Phenolic foam insulation- rigid boards Cellular Foam Insulation ? sheets of Butyle and Nitrile rubber foam etc.

Tips for DIY enthusiasts

The use of cellulose insulation is currently gaining grounds over fiberglass and mineral wool insulation. The reasons being none other than economy! The thermal resistance value ?R? per unit material cost for cellulose fill is the lowest for any attic insulation.

Further the modernized material does not require a vapor barrier (subject to local building codes permitting it)

The cellulose loose fill can be filled in between timber joists. This may raise dust posing a health hazard. Adequate precautions are advised. These fibres may settle about 20 % over the time. An overfill of at least this amount is therefore recommended. On the other hand stabilized cellulose material does not show this weakness and is therefore better suited for the job in spite of the higher price. On the other hand the EPS, PF and cellular foam slabs can be easily cut to exact size between joist spacing and also can be fitted over them completely eliminating any thermal bridges unlike fiberglass, cellulose material etc. Handling of Fibreglass or mineral wool insulation should be done with care. Protective clothing and masks need to be worn. Check all hot water plumbing insulation and renew if necessary. Continuous insulation through out is essential. Check near the storage tanks for weak insulation and rectify as needed. Hot/cold air ducts are easily neglected items in an unconditioned attic. Poor seals between flanged joints, weak insulation in these places and elsewhere, non continuity in insulation etc. may cause high thermal energy losses. Another cause of heat loss from conditioned areas to the attic is the recessed light fittings. Caution should be exercised when insulating the fitting as this will also entrap the heat emitted by the lamp leading to disastrous fires. Seeking manufacturer’s instruction is therefore essential in this matter. Vent grilles to and unheated attic is essential for proper ventilation of the occupied areas. Special care need to be taken to prevent obstruction of these grilles (generally located at the periphery of the attic floor).

Tags: Seasonal maintenance by Jerry
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